ABSTRACT
Embroidery is a technique that adds texture, colour and design by stitching - it creates patterns in textile. This technique has a stitched and decorative element. Throughout experimentation, my needle broke, which led to the question, can I create visual patterns through threadless embroidery?
Distressing the fabric with the broken needle transforms the fabric into a 3D structure without adding any material. I created physical visible surface-based pattern designs made up of simple geometrical shapes and repetition.

RESEARCH APPROACH
I get an understanding of how techniques, processes and materials work and work together by physically making and visually learning. My approach is experimental, followed by reflecting on the details, potential and relevance.
CENTRAL QUESTIONS
Can I create visual patterns through threadless embroidery?

Which fabric shows the most potential?

Through what ways of distressing fabric can I achieve a visual pattern that looks intentional?

Which category of pattern design shows the most potential?

What is the potential for this technique to go back into industry? (does not have to, but could it be done?)

What color works?

What size needle gives the best result?

Can I achieve a certain degree of transformation with this technique?

Does the fabric show a clear physical pattern?

Am I using a material the public can relate to?

What kind of product can I make with this manipulated fabric?
KEY EXPERIMENTS AND INSIGHTS
Changing the threaded needle for another tool, the tool being a broken needle. - By distressing the fabric with a broken needle I can transform the material and create a physical pattern, visually different on both sides of the fabric.

Adding no extra material throughout my technique. - By adding no material I establish the possibility of treadless embroidery (and create a pattern).

Using denim as a material. - Denim has the most potential, because the fabric itself already has a pattern (pattern design layers - more appealing/interesting to look at), this is caused by the way it is woven (twill weave) and with two colors.

Using stretchy colored denims as material. - I found that, because the material is stretchy and has elastic, a clearer physical pattern appears after distressing the material with a broken needle.

Using different needles for the industrial sewing machine, but the same pattern. - For the industrial sewing machine size 60 and 90 give the structure effect, where 90 works best.

Designing intentional surface-based pattern design and translating it onto fabric. - The surface-based pattern design aesthetically has the most potential as it consists out of a lot of different compartments. (chessboard pattern design).

Chessboard pattern design on different coloured denim. - The purple denim shows the most potential as both sided of the fabric have the most visually pattern.

Experimenting with different patterns and shapes. - Surface-based simple geometrical shapes and repetition work best, as they give many different compartments and transform the pattern in a innovative way.

DESIGN CRITERIA
Identity
-My work sparks curiosity in people (Makes people ask questions about the production process).
-My work is interesting to look at from every perspective (no dead spot).

Technique
-The work shows control over the design - both technical and aesthetical.
-The work is fully reproducible, the designer can fully explain the process.

Application
-The material is a fabric with a pattern.
-No material is added to achieve a visual pattern.
-The fabric has to be multifunctional – the fabric must be suitable for various purposes/final results/products.

Aesthetic perception
-My work represents the ability of being in control of the technique.
-My work provokes inspiration in others.
RELEVANCE OF PRACTISE-BASED RESEARCH
Focusing on a different final product than clothing would give me a change to experiment and reflect in another way. Therefore, my process would differ.

Selecting another material and researching and understanding that material would be a good next step as well, I am fully convinced that there is more than stretchy denim.

REALISED WORK
- CLICK FOR FULL PROCESS DOCUMENTATION-
Photography by Stella Matthes